9 January 2026
For years, bio-based materials have been framed as a promise for the future. They appeared in concept showcases, capsule trials, and innovation reports—often impressive, but rarely designed to move beyond limited runs.
Today, that conversation is changing.
As brands, manufacturers, and sourcing teams face increasing pressure to decarbonise materials without compromising performance or cost, the real question is no longer whether bio-based alternatives exist, but whether they can operate at industrial scale.
This shift—from material novelty to material readiness—is now shaping how next-generation materials are evaluated across the industry.
“For a long time, bio-based materials were judged on how innovative they looked in a showcase,” says Ronda de Bie, Senior Vice President of Sales at ISA Next-Gen Materials. “Today, brands are asking a very different question: can this material run consistently in production, at volume, without breaking cost or performance expectations?”
In practice, the biggest challenge for bio-based alternatives is not invention—it is consistency.
When Scaling Becomes the Real Design Constraint
Scaling requires materials that can be produced reliably across colours, thicknesses, and finishes, while maintaining stable performance and cost. Compatibility with existing factory processes is equally critical, as even small deviations can disrupt yield, lead times, and quality control.
“One of the biggest misconceptions is that scaling comes after innovation,” says Ronda. “In reality, scale has to be designed in from the start—how the material behaves in factories and how stable it is across batches.”
ISA COSM takes a different approach in material R&D. Rather than treating sustainability as a surface attribute or marketing label, materials such as HyphaLite are developed as zero-plastic alternatives, with scale and manufacturability embedded directly into the material structure.
This distinction is important, particularly in a market where the term “vegan leather” is often used as a catch-all. Many materials under this label still rely heavily on petrochemical plastics. While animal inputs may be removed, questions around end-of-life impact, circularity, and long-term environmental accountability are frequently left unresolved.
HyphaLite is not positioned as another “vegan” substitute. It is designed as a bio-based material system, where composition, performance, and scalability are addressed together. The material combines regenerated cellulosic fibres such as viscose and lyocell with natural rubber and structural plant-based ingredients to form a 100% bio-based system. This composition enables the durability, softness, and breathability required for footwear and accessories, while remaining compatible with existing production workflows.
“HyphaLite wasn’t developed as a concept material,” Ronda notes. “It was engineered from the beginning so brands and factories can actually commit to it, not just test it.”
From Bio-Content to System Thinking
Another shift shaping the next phase of material innovation is the move away from isolated bio-content percentages toward system-level thinking.
Rather than focusing only on what a material is made from, developers are increasingly looking at how it behaves across its entire lifecycle—from certified sourcing and manufacturability to end-of-life considerations.
“We’ve moved away from talking only about bio-content numbers,” Ronda adds. “What matters more is how a material performs as part of a system—how it’s sourced, how it’s made, how it’s used, and what happens after.”
This commitment is reinforced through third-party validation. COSM materials incorporate USDA Certified Biobased content, use FSC-certified natural inputs, and are developed with biodegradability in mind. Regenerated cellulosic components align with recognised standards for environmental safety, including certifications associated with biodegradation in soil and water environments. In addition, ISA has conducted a Life Cycle Assessment for HyphaLite to identify and to measure the environmental footprint.
By designing materials that fit into existing product categories and supply chains, bio-based alternatives become easier for brands and factories to adopt without structural disruption.
Why This Conversation Matters Now
The materials specified today will shape collections launching six to eighteen months from now. At the same time, sustainability claims are facing far greater scrutiny—from regulators, consumers, and internal decision-makers alike.
“Brands don’t have the luxury of experimenting without a clear path forward anymore,” Ronda says. “They need clarity now—on what is viable, repeatable, and ready for real-world application.”
Scaling Is the Real Innovation
The next phase of bio-based materials will not be defined by novelty alone. It will be shaped by materials that can move confidently from concept to production, from pilot runs to long-term supply.
“Innovation only matters if it can be repeated,” Ronda concludes. “Scaling isn’t the compromise of sustainability—it’s what makes it real.”
That is where the future of next-generation materials will be decided—not in theory, but in production.
The NextGen Fashion Materials TechTalk, held alongside Materials+, is designed to bring these questions to the forefront—connecting material innovators with brands and manufacturers who need more than inspiration. They need solutions that can scale.
