At the APLF, Alexander Thomas, Head of Asia Sourcing and Supply Chain for Caleres, spoke about the company’s sourcing network, its rigorous supplier standards, and, most notably, for a more sustainable leather and footwear industry.

Caleres, a US-based footwear company headquartered in St. Louis, Missouri, operates a portfolio of 15 brands spanning value to luxury, with an annual sourcing volume of USD 500 million and revenues reaching USD 2.7 billion. Alongside its brand portfolio, the company runs the Famous Footwear retail chain, which accounts for half of its business through more than 840 stores across the United States.

Sustainability at the Core

Thomas devoted much of the conversation to sustainability, framing it as a three-part commitment that must run through the entire product lifecycle.

“Sustainability comes in 3 aspects. First and foremost, it’s got to be part of design — the choice of materials, the choice of components — and it’s got to be market relevant,” he said. “Second is sustainability in manufacturing — efficiency, using the right materials in a way that meets our GRS standards. And the third, and perhaps most important part, is follow through.

For Caleres, communication is not just marketing spin; it’s tied to transparency and accountability. The company talks about its sustainability efforts in quarterly and annual public filings, measures energy & waste in its factories, and makes deliberate material choices — from low-VOC PUs to sustainable leathers and components.

Thomas is clear that leather has an image problem that the industry needs to solve. In his words, “The leather industry does not do enough marketing talking about how sustainable leather is.” In recent years, cost pressures have led many brands, even luxury names to replace leather with PU. But Thomas believes this shift overlooks a key truth: “Leather is much more sustainable than PU; it doesn’t have petroleum-based products.”

He warns that while “vegan” materials are trending, many of them are petroleum-based, undermining their green claims. The answer, he argues, is not to abandon leather, but to educate consumers, expand its use beyond the luxury segment, and find operational efficiencies to lower costs without sacrificing sustainability.

Strategic Sourcing and Rigorous Standards

Beyond sustainability, Caleres maintains a global sourcing network that spans Italy, India, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, and Bangladesh. The company works with strategic partners and seasonal factories, with materials nominated by its design & development team.

Becoming a Caleres supplier is challenging. “Our two main criteria at the factory level are quality and compliance — these for us are non-negotiable,” Thomas said. The company’s Five-Star Program ensures quality, while compliance is audited by LRQA.

The Value of Industry Events

Reflecting on recent fairs in Italy, Thomas sees events like APLF as more than showrooms. “The bigger value is connecting — what’s new in the industry, where’s the industry headed, what do we need to do six months from now, one year from now.”

For Caleres, this forward-looking perspective is vital. “Everything that’s in the market now, we’ve already shipped. We’re working 6 months to a year ahead,” he said. Industry gatherings provide the opportunity to exchange insights with competitors, peers, and even “frenemies,” strengthening the industry as a whole.