30 April 2025

Luxury - Richemont: Building a Quiet Giant — One Maison at a Time.

Graphic provided by Quartr.

Malte Karstan writes on LinkedIn: Over the past three and a half decades, Richemont has masterfully built the world’s second-largest luxury group (€20.5B in revenue as of 2024), combining heritage, craftsmanship, and selective expansion.


Each acquisition added a unique piece to a diversified and resilient brand house. Here’s a walk through Richemont’s journey — brand by brand:


1988 Formation:


Richemont is created by merging stakes in some of the world’s finest maisons:

  • Cartier: The “Jeweler of Kings,” Cartier has been the group’s beating heart since day one.
  • Piaget: Master of ultra-thin watchmaking and fine jewelry.
  • Dunhill: British luxury menswear and accessories.
  • Rothmans: Tobacco holding, later divested.
  • Montblanc: Icon of fine writing instruments and accessories.
  • Baume & Mercier: Elegant, accessible Swiss watchmaking.
  • Chloé: Parisian fashion house blending femininity and modernity.

 

1990s–Early 2000s:

 

Expanding Jewelry and Watches

  • Van Cleef & Arpels (1999): Acquired to complement Cartier, famed for high jewelry craftsmanship (~$400M deal).
  • Lancel (1997, later divested): Leather goods focused on accessible luxury.
  • Panerai (1997): Italian military watches reimagined for modern luxury.
  • Vacheron Constantin (1996): Oldest Swiss watchmaker, a symbol of horological prestige.
  • Purdey (1994): British gunsmith and luxury sporting brand.
  • Hackett London (1992, divested): Classic British menswear.


Strengthening Watchmaking Mastery

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre (2000): “Watchmaker’s watchmaker,” technical excellence and timeless design.
  • IWC Schaffhausen (2000): Rugged engineering-driven Swiss watches.
  • A. Lange & Söhne (2000): Germany’s answer to haute horlogerie.

 

2000s:

 

Expanding into Digital and Lifestyle

  • Peter Millar (2012): American luxury sportswear brand, strong in golf lifestyle.
  • YOOX NET-A-PORTER Group (2015): Bold step into luxury e-commerce (~$2.7B acquisition).
  • Manufacture Roger Dubuis (2008): Geneva-based house known for avant-garde haute horlogerie.
  • Maison Alaïa (2007): Legendary fashion house of sculptural, body-conscious designs.

 

2010s–2020s:

 

Craftsmanship and New Horizons

  • Buccellati (2019): Milanese jewelry house celebrated for Renaissance-inspired designs (~$230M deal).
  • Watchfinder (2018): Pioneer in the booming secondary luxury watch market.
  • Delvaux (2021): World’s oldest fine leather goods maison, Belgian understated elegance.
  • Gianvito Rossi (2023): Italian footwear designer known for modern elegance.
  • Serapian Milano (2017): Milanese atelier specializing in discreet leather luxury.

 

In just 35 years, hashtag#Richemont grew from €3.6B to over €20.5B in revenue, with a steady 5% CAGR.

 

Each acquisition wasn’t just about size — it was about protecting heritage, nurturing craftsmanship, and creating lasting desirability.


Luxury built through disciplined acquisitions.

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We organise a number of trade exhibitions which focus on fashion and lifestyle: sectors that are constantly in flux, so visitors and exhibitors alike need to be constantly aware both of the changes around them and those forecast for coming seasons.

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